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☆ Sex, Lies and Tailor’s Tape
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-05 | by ( Gioia Diliberto | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

In the twenty-six years she lived after World War II, Coco Chanel never publicly apologized for her treacherous behavior during the Nazi Occupation of Paris. While living at the Ritz Hotel with a handsome German spy, she had tried to use the Nazi race laws to wrest control of her perfume company from her Jewish partners. She also had embarked on a Nazi-authorized scheme to broker a separate peace with Winston Churchill, and she was overheard making ugly, antisemitic remarks. But in converting Chanel’s experiences into a TV production “inspired by true events,” the show’s creators have mangled or lost much of the actual truth, which is more complicated than what’s portrayed onscreen. (Warning: Spoilers ahead.)

Persons: Coco Chanel, Winston Churchill, “, couturiers Chanel, Christian Dior, what’s Organizations: Ritz, Nazi, Apple Locations: Nazi, Paris

☆ The Cosmic Genius of Iris Van Herpen
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-23 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Possible that said couture show is not an invitation-only affair with gold ballroom chairs and the latest celebrity du jour, but rather one open to the public. “Iris Van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses,” a one-woman exhibition that opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in late November and scheduled to run through April 28. Five years in the making, “Sculpting the Senses” crystallizes why Ms. Van Herpen, 39, is the youngest female designer to be granted a solo show at the museum in its 140 years of existence. And why, more than a decade after being invited to join the ranks of Paris’s couturiers, Ms. Van Herpen has also been made a Chevalier des Arts et Lettres, an honor presented by the French Ministry of Culture. “She has managed to create a unique world, somewhere between fairy tale and science fiction,” said Christine Macel, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Persons: Iris Van Herpen, Van Herpen, Paris’s couturiers, ”, Christine Macel Organizations: Décoratifs, Paris’s, des, French Ministry of Culture, Arts Locations: Paris, “

☆ Cristóbal Balenciaga: Secrets of his success
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-19 | by ( Suyin Haynes | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +9 min

Yet the label’s origins were rather more discreet; founder Cristóbal Balenciaga was renowned for his privacy, secrecy and need for control over every aspect of the design process. “Even though Balenciaga was born very near to where I live in Spain, I didn’t know how important his figure was,” said Lourdes Iglesias, creator of “Cristóbal Balenciaga,” in an interview with CNN via a translator. Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1927, before the war in Spain forced him to move his business to Paris. “He liked to control everything.”The Balenciaga Maison allowed series’ costume designers, Bina Daigeler and Pepo Ruiz Dorado, access to their archives and museum. It’s clearly a very different era now than the one in which Cristóbal Balenciaga was working in.

Persons: Cristóbal Balenciaga, Cristóbal, Balenciaga, —, “, ”, Lourdes Iglesias, David Herranz, Iglesias, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Boris Lipnitzki, Roger Viollet, Balenciaga ”, Alberto San, Maison, couturiers, d’Attainville, Christian Dior, ” Coco Chanel, Hubert de Givenchy, Grace Kelly, Wallis Simpson, Marlene Dietrich, Carmel Snow, Diana Vreeland, Maison Balenciaga, Bina Daigeler, Pepo Ruiz, Daigeler, Victor Seco, ” Iglesias, Jacques Bogart, Nicolas Ghesquière, Demna, It’s Organizations: CNN, Disney, Jacques Bogart SA Locations: Spain, Paris, Getaria, Basque, Madrid, San Sebastian, Barcelona, French, Alberto San Juan ., Nazi, France, Pepo Ruiz Dorado, Belgian, Europe

☆ New exhibition shines a light on the forgotten Black voices of fashion
▼ + stars: | 2023-10-05 | by ( Funmi Fetto | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +6 min

“The Missing Thread, Untold Stories of Black Fashion” is filled with photos like this, as the showcase dives deep into the history of Black British culture from the 1970s to the present day — specifically, how it has been a forgotten influence on the fashion industry. British Jamaican photographer Vanley Burke has spent over 50 years documenting Black British communities in Birmingham. London-born photographer Jennie Baptiste is another artist getting her dues in "The Missing Thread." At the center of the exhibition is the work of Black British designer Joe Casely-Hayford, who died in 2019. Casely-Hayford was nominated for Womenswear British Designer of the Year in 1989 and also Innovative Designer of the Year in 1991.

Persons: London CNN —, Neil Kenlock, ”, Andrew Ibi, Jason Jules, Harris Elliot —, Jules, Black creatives, Law Roach, Chioma Nnadi, Ibi, Elliot, Vanley Burke, “, Wayne Pinnock, Pinnock’s, Suzy Menkes, Pinnock, Jennie Baptiste, Pinky, Chinyere Eze, Brenda Cuffy, Charlie Allen, Joe Casely, Hayford, Kevin Davies, White, Bruce Oldfield, Queen, Ozwald Boateng, Savile, Bono, Charlie, Harris Organizations: London CNN, London’s Somerset House, Development Agency, CNN, Somerset House, Royal College of Art, New York Times, Moschino, Vogue, British Empire, Victoria & Abert Museum, FIT Locations: British, Birmingham, Handsworth Park, Somerset, Milan, London, Casely, New York City

☆ A Tale of Family Intrigue and Inheritance
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-25 | by ( Dana Thomas | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

The French fashion designer Pierre Cardin liked to brag about all he had accomplished since he started his brand in 1950. “All the couturiers were influenced by me,” he said. “Everyone knows Pierre Cardin.”What he didn’t like to talk about was what would become of his company after he was gone. Indeed, three months before Mr. Cardin died in December 2020, at 98, after a bout of Covid-19, he told a Paris Match reporter: “After my death? His longtime business and life partner, André Oliver, died in 1993.

Persons: Pierre Cardin, Cardin, ”, Cardin’s, grandnephews, André Oliver Locations: Marigny, France, Paris

☆ An Island Utopia Where Nobody Dies and the Living Is Easy
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-01 | by ( Chelsea Leu | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

THE FERRYMAN, by Justin CroninFor a science-fictional utopia created by a reclusive “Designer,” the world of “The Ferryman” bears a startling resemblance to the well-heeled strata of, say, San Francisco or New York. The art is bad, and no one seems to realize it. There’s something mildly intoxicating, in fact, about entering this utopia, called Prospera, because Cronin’s shrewd world-building allows us to have it both ways: We sink into aspirational fantasy even as we relish the author’s sly commentary on a certain species of coastal elite. (Prospera is an island, after all.) Rather than undergo the indignities of birth and death, old or infirm Prosperans are sent by ferry to a mysterious island called the Nursery, where their memories are wiped and their bodies rejuvenated, so they can return as hale 16-year-olds with new identities.

☆ On Oscars Carpet, the ‘Naked Dress’ Ruled
▼ + stars: | 2023-03-13 | by ( Rory Satran | ) www.wsj.com time to read: +1 min

Rihanna and red carpet host Ashley Graham in complementary revealing looks on Oscar night. Today’s Naked Dress trend, in full effect at the Oscars and its various celebrations Sunday, is in line with Saint Laurent’s prescient vision of glamorous nudity. On the Academy Awards’s red carpet, the Naked Dress continued its proud, chilly parade with looks such as Eva Longoria’s Zuhair Murad white lace gown and Ashley Graham’s fully sheer black tulle dress with cutouts. To the Vanity Fair Oscars party, Olivia Wilde wore a white Gabriela Hearst column cut away to reveal a leather bra. Rihanna’s custom Alaïa leather dress worn over a sheer jersey bodysuit was a provocative pregnancy twist on the look.

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